Step 2: Prepare the Cuttings
Once you’ve taken your cuttings, strip off the leaves from the bottom half of each stem.
This part of the stem will be placed into the soil. Keep two or three sets of leaves at the top to help the plant continue photosynthesis.
If there are any flower buds or blooms, pinch them off. These take energy away from root formation and can slow down the propagation process.
You can also gently scrape the bottom inch of the stem with a knife to expose the green layer underneath the bark (the cambium). This minor wounding can encourage faster root development.
Dipping the base of the cutting in rooting hormone powder or gel is optional but highly recommended. Rooting hormone speeds up the rooting process and increases the chances of success.
Step 3: Prepare the Potting Mix
Lavender requires light, well-draining soil to root successfully.
Use a potting mix specifically formulated for propagation or make your own using:
1 part perlite or coarse sand
1 part peat moss, coco coir, or vermiculite
Avoid heavy garden soil or compost, which can retain too much moisture and promote root rot. Fill small pots or trays with the moistened propagation mix. Gently tap the container to settle the soil.
Use a pencil or stick to make a hole in the soil for each cutting. Insert the cutting about one-third to halfway into the mix, making sure no leaves are buried. Press the soil around the base gently to hold the cutting upright.
Step 4: Create a Humid Environment
To help your lavender cuttings root successfully, it’s important to maintain a high level of humidity while avoiding excess moisture that can cause rot.
Lightly mist the cuttings with water, and cover the container with a clear plastic bag, a plastic dome, or a cloche to create a mini greenhouse.
Make sure the plastic doesn’t touch the leaves. Use small stakes or wire hoops to hold the cover above the foliage if needed. Leave the bag slightly open or punch a few holes to allow air circulation and prevent mold buildup.
Place the covered pots in a warm, bright location with indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight at this stage, as it can cause the cuttings to overheat or dry out. A room temperature of 65–75°F (18–24°C) is ideal.
Step 5: Monitor and Wait
Check your cuttings daily to make sure the soil remains lightly moist. Mist with water if the leaves look dry or if condensation disappears from the plastic cover. Be careful not to overwater—lavender does not like soggy soil.
Roots will typically begin forming in 3 to 6 weeks, depending on the environment and whether you’re using softwood or semi-hardwood cuttings.
You’ll know roots are forming when you see new growth at the top of the cutting or feel gentle resistance when you tug on the stem.
Transplanting Rooted Lavender Cuttings
Once your lavender cuttings have developed a strong root system (usually about 1–2 inches long), they’re ready to be transplanted into individual pots.
Use a 4-inch pot filled with a well-draining lavender-friendly mix: a blend of potting soil, coarse sand, and perlite is ideal. Carefully transplant each rooted cutting, being gentle with the fragile roots.
Water lightly after transplanting and keep the pots in bright, indirect sunlight for a few more days. Then gradually move them into full sun over a week to harden them off.
Once the plants have grown several inches tall and are strong enough to handle the outdoor elements, you can transplant them into the garden or larger outdoor containers.
Growing Lavender Outdoors
When planting your lavender outdoors, choose a location with full sun exposure—at least 6 to 8 hours per day.
Lavender thrives in dry, well-drained, slightly alkaline soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.5. If your soil is heavy or clay-based, amend it with sand or gravel to improve drainage.
Space your lavender plants 12 to 24 inches apart to ensure proper airflow and prevent disease. Once established, lavender is drought-tolerant and thrives with minimal watering. In fact, overwatering is the number one reason lavender plants fail.
Caring for Young Lavender Plants
Watering: Keep the soil lightly moist while the plant is establishing, but let it dry out between waterings once it’s mature. Overwatering causes root rot.
Fertilizing: Lavender doesn’t need much feeding. A handful of compost or slow-release fertilizer in early spring is enough.
Pruning: In the first year, pinch off new growth to encourage branching. Once established, prune after flowering to shape the plant and promote future blooms.
Winter care: In colder climates, mulch around the base of outdoor lavender or move container plants indoors during winter.
Growing lavender from cuttings is one of the easiest and most effective ways to multiply your favorite varieties.
With a little patience and care, you can turn one healthy lavender plant into a garden full of fragrant, pollinator-friendly blooms.
Whether you’re planting in borders, containers, or creating a soothing herbal hedge, your propagated lavender plants will thrive for years to come.
Once you’ve mastered this simple method, you’ll never need to buy lavender starts again. Start with one cutting, and before long, you’ll be enjoying a thriving lavender garden grown entirely by your own hands.
